Bella Hadid had once again made an iconic red-carpet moment at the 74th annual Cannes Film Festival. She stuns in this figure-hugging, black-wool gown with a dramatic décolletage covered with a gold-dipped bronchial-like neck piece embellished with rhinestones. Her ‘Schiaparelli moment’ on the red-carpet had ushered in the rebirth and resurgence of the Maison. Ultimately, she introduced it back to the 21st century fashion sphere.
Elsa Schiaparelli and the birth of the Maison.
You might have heard of Coco Chanel as one of the pioneer fashion designers of the early 20th Century. She defined classic womenswear; whereas Elsa Schiaparelli was the alternative to what Chanel had established.
Her works are also noted as Avant-garde, fashion-forward, fun, and shocking. She found the nexus between Art and Fashion like no one else had thought of. Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau were the surrealist artists that Elsa collaborated with to translate her avant-garde vision to life. One of her notable pieces that gained traction was the impeccable evening jackets along with the ‘Tear dress’ she made with Salvador Dali. Moreover, she pioneered almost every existing statement piece that we have today in the sphere. From the shoulder pads to Newsprint fashion (which you might have seen from DIOR by John Galliano) — all from the Schiaparelli House code.
Daniel Roseberry and the Maison
Meanwhile, in April 2019, Daniel Roseberry took over Bertrand’s Guyon as the new Artistic Director of the Maison. It can’t be denied that Roseberry understood the assignment because his works are not a far cry from Elsa Schiaparelli’s works. That’s how he understands and resembles her vision. He always aims for the pinnacle of fantasy. That’s how he wanted to establish alternative couture for women of today—the 21st century Schiaparelli woman.
From the recent spring 2022 haute couture collection. He has showcased ensembles that are superb and modern versions of the existing Schiaparelli Designs. Black, Gold, and White were the colors that he played with throughout the whole collection. One has got to trust Daniel’s vision with this collection—cause he’s not playing games with haute couture Dare to say, he created ensembles that became the standard-bearer of Haute Couture.
Schiaparelli rebirth and redefining fashion for 21st century
Recently, we have seen Zendaya wore the iconic ensemble from the 2022 Spring Haute couture collection. Adele wore a custom-made Schiaparelli for her ‘One Night Only’ show and GaGa in Schiap’ haute couture FW21 for British Vogue—Schiap is EVERYWHERE! Even the Philippines’ fashion scene also got inspired by the vision of the Maison when Nadine Lustre recently wore a long black dress with a Scorpion Breastplate by Job Dacon to the recent 2022 MEGA BALL. We can notice the subtle nod to the Maison Schiap.
Indeed, the 21st century has now started to embrace Schiaparelli through Daniel Roseberry’s vision and talent (as they should). Daniel, with his flair, truly understands Elsa’s vision and this is why Schiaparelli still has everyone on a chokehold.
Schiaparelli was so ahead of its time that until now we’re still catching up.
JV majors in Communication at the Ateneo De Naga University. He has the eye for a great fashion moment and which statement pieces should be talked about, you name it. He's gonna give you everything you need to know—from Runway collections, Fashion Film and History, and Even the Maisons and Atelier’s tenets; he makes sure he gets everything right! Always ready to be vocal and striving for nothing but excellence in his field.