“To deceive and trick the eye”. This is the exact translation of the French word Trompe L’oeil that you might have heard of since last year’s fashion week season. From Y/Project X JPG’s human anatomy 3D illusion to Jonathan Anderson of Loewe’s minecraft-esque mirage. This is the hottest fad this season up until next year’s Spring and Summer era.
Below is a rundown of Trompe L’oeil’s beginning in the fashion industry. And how the contemporary artisans added their flair with a twist to the concept.
Elsa Schiaparelli holds the blueprint of Trompe L’oeil in Fashion
Dictionary.com defines Trompe L’oeil as a visual deception, especially in paintings. The objects are rendered in an extremely fine detail, emphasizing the illusion of tactile and spatial qualities. Elsa Schiaparelli who pioneered the surrealism movement through clothing also holds the blueprint of Trompe L’oeil in Fashion.
Her hand-knitted sweater gained traction in the early 19th century. The illusion effect sits on the chest of the sweater. Tricking the eye of what appears to be a tie bow. It’s all the subtle drama and a sure eye-catching look that Elsa heralded during her time.
This concept was then adapted by the fashion artisans of the following years. Namely, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Azzedine Alaia.
Today, the historical and sartorial deceit of the eye in fashion reinvents itself and continues to resurface through the contemporary designers’ vision.
At Y/Project, its Fall 2022 collections showcased its homage to JPG (Jean Paul Gaultier). The unveiling of its debut collection of the collaboration of Y/Project’s Glenn Martens with JPG ushered in a trend. And will remain iconic in the next few years.
The designs are in true JPG style of human physique and anatomy. Printed on streetwear pieces like loose jeans, jackets, tank tops, bodycon dresses, and shirts. Contemporary Trompe L’oeil ensembles we are digging this season until next year.
Meanwhile, at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson continues to be notorious when it comes to executing his bizarre and playful vision in clothing. For every season he immensely shocks the world with his out-of-the-box yet successful—in terms of execution—pieces. His own version of Trompe L’oeil showcases a pixelated illusion of clothing that no one can ever fathom how it came to be.
Bottega goes for a subtle out-of-the-box illusion while Balmain and Roseberry continue to commit to Trompe L’oeil
For Matthieu Blazy, his recent collection at first glance might not seem to get much traction. Because of its traditional designs and styles of Denim, cotton shirts, and long sleeves, including flannels and khaki pants. However, it is not executed with the traditional material of what appears to be denim and cotton. Prepare yourself to be mind-blown, because it is all leather made!
Moreover, A couple of the biggest names in the industry like Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing also tapped the Trompe L’oeil effect throughout his collection. The ensembles showcase Renaissance-esque paintings on the dresses as if the models are nude. Daniel Roseberry also continues to explore the rich surrealist culture and history of Schiaparelli. Incorporating a Trompe L’oeil manifested in a gold-glitz dusted anatomical designs on catsuits and bodycon dresses.
JV majors in Communication at the Ateneo De Naga University. He has the eye for a great fashion moment and which statement pieces should be talked about, you name it. He's gonna give you everything you need to know—from Runway collections, Fashion Film and History, and Even the Maisons and Atelier’s tenets; he makes sure he gets everything right! Always ready to be vocal and striving for nothing but excellence in his field.